Introduction I visited India from December 7, 2005 through January 6, 2006. For the first 11 days, I stayed alone in the Chinmaya ashram in Mumbai, recovering from jet lag and imbibing the peaceful and spiritual atmosphere. Then a group of 16 Americans of mostly Indian origin showed up and we traveled all over India, from the Himalayas in the north to the southernmost tip at Kanya Kumari. Some of my photographs are posted below. I do not limit myself to 'pretty' photos, as I wish to show India as she is. There was great beauty as well as squalor. I have also provided a brief narrative with my impressions of India. (I do not mention any names, except for Swamiji, and I avoid showing pictures of people in the group.) My desire to visit India stems from my longtime interest in Indian philosophy and spirituality. You can read more about it elsewhere on this website, but allow me to summarize (at the risk of putting most readers to sleep). In college, I studied philosophy and decided that the prevailing materialistic outlook, in which matter is fundamental and consciousness somehow derived from it, is unsatisfactory. It is inconceivable to me that consciousness could arise from insentient matter, assuming that the latter even exists. In fact, there is no reason at all to assume that matter exists independently of consciousness, as we commonly suppose. It is far more reasonable to view the so-called world as no more than our perception of it, so that it is quite like a dream and hence 'within consciousness'. The world is, in effect, a dream that we have in common when we are 'awake'. This is actually quite 'scientific', since science tells us to rely on observation, which is none other than perception. However, unlike some fuzzy new-age thinkers, I have the greatest respect for the laws of nature, which accurately describe the behavior of our perceptions. Therefore, I reject any beliefs that involve miracles (though to be precise I consider miracles to be extremely unlikely rather than impossible). In a word, consciousness is the fundamental reality, and although this does not necessarily prove immortality, it does make it far more likely, since consciousness is then no longer reduced to the perishable brain. (There is, of course, a close association between consciousness and what we are pleased to call 'brain', even though the latter is within consciousness like everything else.) In turn, this outlook leads to an interest in 'higher states of consciousness', which have been explored by yogis and sages for centuries in India, in a way which could be called scientific and empirical (as opposed to the perhaps dubious revelatory basis of other religious traditions). So much for my philosophical views, which, needless to say, are reflected in the Advaitic and Buddhist literature which I enjoy reading. For many years, I simply read about Indian philosophy, but then, about five years ago, I decided I would like to hear some lectures on Advaita from an authentic swami. A Google search brought me to the local Chinmaya Mission, and I have been happily attending satsangh (discussion) ever since. The mission was founded by Swami Chinmayananda in 1953, who impressed upon it his qualities of rationality, humanism, and equality, as well as his deep spirituality. For example, India has often been maligned for caste, with the priestly Brahmins singled out for supposed elitism, but Chinmayananda was not even a Brahmin (not that there is anything wrong with Brahmins per se). All in all, the mission is very modern in its outlook, while preserving the best of the spiritual tradition. It seems to be made up mostly of educated professionals, though anyone with a taste for books and learning is welcome. It is noteworthy that Swami Chinmayananda rarely, if ever, mentions miracles or special psychic powers in his writings, thus defying the 'snake charmer' reputation that Indian wisdom sometimes has in the West. It is all about purifying consciousness, or realizing our true nature as the Self. Our essential nature is divine, and, needless to say, this has nothing to do with the ego. Our task in life is to overcome all the negative mental tendencies which prevent us from realizing this fundamental truth. (In my opinion, Buddhism is quite similar, but that is another story.) So my interest in India originated in philosophy and spirituality. However, since coming to the mission, I have developed a keen appreciation of Indian culture in general, and Hindu culture in particular. The latter may seem exotic and confusing at first, but the mere fact that is has survived and flourished despite a thousand years of invasion and persecution, from both the Muslims and the British, speaks volumes for its fundamental worth. Hindu culture is noteworthy for its tolerance and open-mindedness, as well as its tendency to see the divine in all aspects of life. There is little or no pressure to conform, yet somehow Hindus have managed to maintain a strong family structure, in which delinquency is rare. People from a Christian or Muslim background often criticize the worship of idols, but a little reflection shows this to be a mere ignorant prejudice, as the divine has no particular form, therefore many different representations are equally valid or invalid, as you please. Nobody understands the abstract and transcendent nature of the divine better than the Hindus, though admittedly this is for the scholars and sages rather than ordinary people. India has great natural beauty, as well as spectacular temples, as we will see. Yet I do not wish to romanticize this country, as foreigners often do. There is indeed a depressing amount of poverty, especially in the big cities. We must remember that India was one of the richest nations in the world before it fell victim to a thousand years of tragic conquest and exploitation. So we cannot blame India for the poverty, and besides, the economy is now growing and the future looks bright. What I do blame India for is all the trash that I saw everywhere, not to mention the dirty walls, particularly in the big cities. It seems to me that with so much cheap labor, Indians could do a better job of keeping the place clean and throwing a coat of paint over stuff from time to time. However, some Indian friends tell me that political corruption is a major problem, and allocated public money does not always reach its intended destination. Anyhow, I will point out that even the poorest Indian women always have clean and colorful saris, and in general I found the people to be friendly, intelligent and energetic. (The taxidrivers are certainly energetic!) There is great potential in this country which needs the right political circumstances to be unleashed. Without further ado, let us look as some pictures. Mumbai (Bombay) The group tour of India, called Bharat Dharshan, was organized by the Chinmaya Mission and ran from December 19th through January 2nd. But thanks to the wise advice of a friend, I went to Mumbai a full 11 days earlier and stayed at the local Chinmaya ashram, where I could rest, meditate, get up before daybreak to hear the chanting and sit in on classes attended by young "Brahmachari" student monks with shaven heads and white clothes. (A Brahmachari is one who has control of his senses. Strictly speaking, it stands for chastity. There are also female students, called 'Brahmacharinis'. The Brahmacharis and Brahmacharinis talk easily with each other from time to time, but are segregated in class and in their living and eating.) The ashram itself is an oasis of tranquility and natural beauty in a noisy and dirty city. It is situated near Lake Powai to the north, with the famed Indian Institute of Technology and a luxury hotel for neighbors, along with shantytowns and ordinary middle-class apartments. (In India, the rich and poor often live side-by-side.) The entrance to the ashram, hidden at the top of a secluded hill. One of the dormitories for the brahmacharis. The lovely tree-lined main path of the ashram. The kitchen, which serves simple and healthy vegetarian food. A beautiful garden scene, taken from a window in the ashram. Brahmacharis chanting before sunrise. They wear caps because it is winter. The sanskrit prayers resonate with a cosmic sound in the morning silence. The picture is of Swami Tapovan, the guru of Swami Chinmayananda. Here is Dhananjaya, a typically friendly brahmachari from Orissa. Another Indian brahmachari, named Vishnu, with Eric, an American brahmachari. (He is middle-aged like me, but the Indian brahmacharis are all college-aged.) Here I am in Indian shirt before the building in which visitors are lodged. I got my head shaved along with the other brahmacharis. That was fun. Some brahmacharis waiting to attend a play put on locally by Chinmaya schoolchildren. That was the only time they were allowed to leave the ashram that year. Here are the schoolchildren putting on their play, about Radha and Mirabai, both loving devotees of Krishna. Rhada consoles Mirabai, until she has her "vision" of Krishna. The play takes some license, as these two women lived centuries apart. Here is the shantytown right next to the ashram. The picture was taken from the ashram, which is on top of a hill. The big pipes provide Mumbai its water from Lake Powai. Soon after arriving at the ashram, I decided to visit the shantytown on my own. I was told I would be perfectly safe, and indeed I felt that way when I was there. Everyone in the shantytown ignored me, except for the children, who were very friendly. Trash and cows, a common urban scene in India. I'm now leaving the shantytown to go back to the ashram. Those are the Mumbai water pipes again. When I visited Lake Powai and tried to take a picture, the policeman stopped me. I think it may have something to do with terrorism and the water supply. Small shops are everywhere in India. Contrary to their otherworldly reputation, Indians are natural born businessmen! As I walked around near the ashram, I came across these schoolchildren going home. They all wear uniforms in India, which looks very neat and charming and probably helps them to grow up unspoiled. Delinquency and crime are rare in India, and most people are polite and friendly. (This may change with the influx of Western media.) The Indian children love to pose for the camera. This is fortunate, as I am generally reluctant to stick my camera in the faces of adults. The multitude of Indian shops are colorful, with pictures of Gods, Goddesses and movie stars. Yet another nice kid. A generic urban scene. Typical Indian dress called a kurta, worn by Hindus and Muslims. Cool and comfortable in the heat. Sadly, most of the men in the streets now wear ordinary western shirts, though the women continue with traditional sarees. Here is some of the poverty. I don't know how the people actually feel about life, and I didn't ask them. The children are always happy. Perhaps they have a lesson to teach us. Notice that the clothes are all clean. (And let us remember that our ancestors all lived in huts for many millennia. However, these huts were in the midst of beautiful nature, perceived as full of divinities, as opposed to the modern, dirty city.) Mumbai streets are full of motorscooters and 'auto-rickshaws', three-wheeled covered vehicles, as pictured here. Traffic is hectic and crazy, with little regard for lanes and street signs. It is survival of the fittest, and I would not last a minute as a driver. However, it is fun to ride in a rickshaw and let the 'rickshaw-wallah' deal with it. I try to capture the hectic nature of the traffic with this photo, but one really needs a video. Remember that vehicles can cut right across traffic at a moment's notice. The giant potholes are a relatively minor nuisance. The taxi drivers are very skilled, with the reflexes of fighter pilots, and they can supposedly change a flat tire before the light turns green (not that it matters what color the traffic light is). I took this picture of a taxi driver during a pause in the traffic, because I was wondering about his life and how near yet far he is during that moment. For all I know, he is a great devotee, or scholar, or even a saint. The chilies hanging from the mirror are for good luck. I must say, that with all the crazy driving, I encountered remarkably few accidents. Out in the suburbs of Mumbai, the scene starts to look green and pleasant. This was on the way to Thane, where the Chinmaya schoolchildren held their play. More Mumbai suburbs. Our Bharat Darshan group rented buses like this and went all over India. We also took overnight sleeper trains for long distances, like the Rajdhani Express from Mumbai to Delhi, as well as an airplane from Delhi to Chennai. Another apartment in the Mumbai suburbs. Not too bad. The architecture is a bit curious, perhaps. The colorful 'Goods Carrier' trucks, seen all over India. They help to cheer up the streets. Pretty skillful! Balancing oversize loads seems to be a prerequisite for many of the street vendors. This adorable boy came up to my taxi window at an intersection to beg. I followed the advice given to me and gave him nothing, so as not to be inundated by beggars. I felt bad afterwards, but he didn't even stop smiling. Some people are simply born nice. In front, a Muslim with beard and white robe. In the back, a wife or girlfriend riding side-saddle, a very common sight on the Indian street. Indians just love their movie stars, and I must say, many of the actresses are quite stunning! The movies are generally light escapist entertainment, without a deep message, but without the sex and violence of western films either. A lot of singing and dancing too (a new song every ten minutes or so). Impressive Victorian colonial architecture down near the Gate of India at the southern tip of Mumbai. The same area. I include this picture to give you some idea of the crowds. Still the same general area. I thought this looked a bit like Paris. Yet the sign says 'Piccadilly Restaurant' and the food is Lebanese and Iranian! One of the temples in Mumbai. I could not photograph inside most of the temples, but I assure you they are as beautiful on the inside as on the outside. My driver and I stopped here for a delicious concoction, a bit like a milkshake but eaten from a bowl with a spoon, made of sweet cream and mango fruit. Ambrosial and refreshing! (It may have made me sick later, but it was worth it.) A colorful candy store, with hanging flower garlands too. The Hindi script is called Devanagari or 'handwriting of the Gods', also used to write classical Sanskrit. Elephanta Caves The Elephanta Caves are a tourist attraction on an island near Mumbai, which should not be missed by anyone who loves Indian religious art. Dating from the 8th and 9th centuries, the entire complex is carved from the rock and contains sculptures related to the Hindu cult of Shiva. (Yet I detect a clear continuity between the blissful, meditative face of the giant Shiva and the earlier Buddhas and Jain saints.) I was quite awed by what I saw and finally understood why anyone would want to worship an idol! I guess we Americans are only impressed by size. One takes a pleasant boatride from the Gate of India to get to the island. Mumbai from off the coast. It looks hazy, but the weather was pleasant. The entrance to the caves, all carved by hand from the rock. Imagine the labor! And hence the devotion. The inside is cool and dark, thus setting up a spiritual atmosphere. Gods carved from the rock, not placed there. The damage is not from erosion, since the cave is protected from the elements, but from the fanatical zeal of the Portuguese. Fortunately, the large Shiva head was behind a wooden panel which they never thought to open. The centerpiece, the magnificent Trimurthi or "triple head" of Shiva, as creator, sustainer and destroyer. (An interesting contrast to the usual Brahma-Vishnu-Shiva trinity.) The lady gives an idea of the imposing size. Might this not be the Buddha? I took many pictures of the Trimurthi, in order to capture subtle differences in perspective and lighting. Staring at this put me in a meditative state! One more picture! Shiva with his consort Parvati. Notice how she also looks blissful, as well as graceful and slightly erotic. The couple are surrounded by various auxiliary deities or 'angels' or whatever. (I will do a bit of research and post my results.) Worth another nearly identical snapshot, in my opinion. Another Shiva. I love his flowing movement. Not sure who this is. Local women posing for photos. I took two photos and gave them a generous sum. They then insisted I pay them twice as much, since I took two photos! Vendors line the long rock stairs leading from the dock to the caves. Going North to New Delhi Our group met at the ashram in Mumbai on Dec 19th. We had an audience with Swami Tejomayananda, head of the Chinmaya Mission, who is a warm and friendly person ... quite a feat considering his busy schedule! He glanced at our itinerary, shook his head, and remarked that we were trying to see too much in our allotted time. He was right, but it was worth it! The first leg of our journey took us north to New Delhi, the Taj Mahal and the Himalayas, where we would visit the ashram at Siddhabari in which Swami Chinmayananda is buried, as well as the ashram at Uttarkashi dedicated to his guru, Swami Tapovan. Here is Swami Dheerananda, who led our expedition. Obviously, he is a very kind and warm-hearted person. Having attended satsangh with him for over four years, I can vouch for his wisdom and learning as well. I met a number of Chinmaya Swamis and Swaminis during my trip, all of whom impressed me with their intelligence, kindness and humility. Here is the Mumbai train station, as we prepare to take the Rajdhani Express to New Delhi. We would sleep on this train, which was an enjoyable experience, as the rocking motion puts one gently to sleep. We are walking to the train. I remember this moment vividly due to the excitement of starting out on our journey. As I sit in the train, the sun sets over the lovely countryside. At sunrise, mist blankets the trees. As we approach New Delhi, a procession reminds us that the Communist Party is still active here. The New Delhi train station was unpleasant, but New Delhi itself is spacious, modern and green, with large avenues, at least in the government section, where the ashram is also located. A bit like Washington, D.C. Another scene in New Delhi. We did not stay in New Delhi for long, so I don't have many pictures, except for the Akshardam temple. Akshardam Temple (New Delhi) The Akshardam temple was spectacular. It is a magnificent temple complex built recently in only five years but based on classic Hindu temples as codified in the shastras. I loved this place. Photos were not permitted, so you may visit their excellent website instead, from which the following pictures were taken. In my opinion, this temple is as beautiful as any cathedral, or even the Vatican! One feels transported to a heavenly place and this is truly a house of the Gods. Do you still doubt my comparison to the Vatican? The temple is dedicated to Lord Swaminarayan, a hugely popular 18th century saint, seen here in gold. A closeup of Lord Swaminarayan. Notice the exquisite pillar carvings. The dome is stunning. And changes with the light. There is more than one dome. I would have thought that such a superb marble and sandstone structure could never be built again! And to think, it was built without steel, for authenticity, yet can withstand a major earthquake. Thousands of artisans worked on the fantastic carvings. An exuberant profusion of deities, life, and spirituality. And let us not forget the beloved elephants. Nor the ordinary devotees. Including women carrying water pots, as they have done for centuries. The elephants love and protect their young. How endearing and lifelike! Some have multiple trunks, just as Hindu deities often have multiple limbs, denoting supernatural powers and reaching out to all devotees. Celestial perfection in stone. Look at the detail! It seems like ice or diamond rather than stone. More exquisite detail. In 3D! Hypnotic detail! This deity looks approachable. Deities in every nook and cranny. Notice Lord Swaminarayan's natural, relaxed pose. The dancers come to life. So intricate yet coherent. Almost organic. Is that a gold-plated pillar in the background, or just the effect of light? I can't remember. The ceiling receives as much attention as the pillars. Lovely maidens perform ablutions. One girl is awed, the other pensive. The generations pass; the spirit of the temple is forever. Taj Mahal (Agra) The Taj Mahal is surely an architectural gem, but I found it a bit cold and sterile compared to the warmth and exuberance of Akshardam. It lacks the celebration of life and spirituality, and in fact it is the mausoleum for a dead princess. Nevertheless, it is something everyone should see at least once in their life. My goodness! It looks just like the postcards. Again, the Indian love of exquisite detail. No lifelike images, though, since it is Muslim. One member of our group said that the monument used to be more gleaming and white. Perhaps acid rain is getting to it. Photos were not permitted inside, but there wasn't that much to see. Siddhabari (Himalayas) From Delhi, we took another train up to Pathankot, in Himachal Pradesh, an Indian state in the Himalayas. You can find Pathankot on this tourist map way up in the north of India between the words 'Pakistan' and 'China'. We are definitely in the Himalayas, as you can verify on this relief map, even though the peaks are not as high and white as the stereotypical Mt. Everest. I assure you that the bus ride from Pathankot to Siddhabari, a few hours to the east, was quite scenic and even spectacular. The following photographs do not do justice since they cannot really capture the depth. The ride was also quite dangerous, with winding narrow roads along the edges of deep cliffs and ravines, which didn't slow the bus driver down in the slightest. Fortunately, the beauty made us forget about the danger, though someone later claimed that a bus behind us did plunge into a ravine. These pilgrimages are not supposed to be pleasure cruises! Siddhabari is the location of a major Chinmaya ashram, where Swami Chinmayananda spent many years and is buried. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a good website on it, but the following pictures may give you an idea of the grandeur of the location. Pathankot is a fairly bustling town. The rickshaws tend to be human-powered. Still in Pathankot. A typical Indian town. The women are colorful as always. As are the shops and their signs. What would India be without them? A colorful statue of Krishna at the Siddhabari ashram, in characteristically graceful pose while playing his flute. The blue skin denotes infinity, and the yellow is a warm color that goes well with blue. (OK, the yellow is a guess on my part.) A centerpiece of the ashram is an imposing statue of Hanuman, about 30 or so feet high. The sculpture was shaped by hand from wet plaster; the skill of the sculptor is considerable. Hanuman stands for devotion, in his case to Rama, the great hero-god of the classic epic called 'Ramayana'. From the balcony of my dormitory, I can see the mountains, as well as the picturesque rice terraces that often appear in pictures of China. (The mountains show up better in the next photograph.) Taken from the same balcony, a darker exposure brings out the mountains. Unfortunately, the photograph simply doesn't capture the breathtaking feeling of space and depth. And it was a bit hazy when I was there. Therefore, I stole this photograph from another website, which is better than anything I could get with my camera. I would give credit but I forgot to note where it comes from. Sorry! (Don't forget to click on these photos.) A blanket of clouds envelops the higher distant peaks, which have some snow. Another attempt to capture the feeling of space. This was taken on a later drive to the Dalai Lama's ashram. Dalai Lama's Ashram The Dalai Lama's ashram was a short drive from Siddhabari, at Dharamsala, which you can locate near Pathankot on this map. When the Chinese invaded Tibet in 1959, Prime Minister Nehru of India offered refuge to the Dalai Lama, spiritual and political leader of the Tibetans, in Dharamsala. Since then, many Tibetans have joined him, and the place has become know as 'Little Lhasa'. The famous Tibetan prayer wheels, which the faithful spin as they pass by. The sage Padmasambhava, who brought Buddhism to Tibet. The precious Kangyur, or Tibetan Buddhist scriptures, which were salvaged during the escape from the Chinese. How ironic that they are back in the land they originally came from! A golden Buddha, seated on his throne in meditation. Yes, there are Tibetan monks here, in habitual scarlet (burgundy?) robes. A Hindu guru we visited on the way back. Does he not look impressive?! And a bit scary. He was very friendly, though. We were amused when, at the end of our visit, he took pictures of each of us with his camera. Some statues of Krishna in a local shop, where I bought a nice bronze Saraswati, goddess of learning and art. On the bus near Dharamsala. The weather is clearer and cooler today. This steep drop was typical of the entire bus ride in the Himalayas. Notice the nearly horizontal roads on the mountain (click to enlarge); the roads have to wrap around and around the mountains and it takes a long time to get anywhere. I was quite impressed with the engineering prowess that it took to build the roads and erect the power lines. A closeup of the picturesque rice terraces, which allow people to live in a mountainous region. Rishikesh and Uttarkashi (Himalayas) The Chinmaya ashram at Uttarkashi honors the place when Swami Tapovan, the guru of Swami Chinmayananda, achieved realization by braving the cold and meditating in a hut for many years, in classic guru fashion. It is located near the holy cities of Rishikesh and Hardwar in Uttar Pradesh, which you can locate on this map somewhat northeast of Delhi. We are still in the Himalayas, close to the sacred Ganges river. The Ganges, as seen from the bus. We stopped briefly in a mountain village, with colorful balconies. The villagers were very friendly and a bit shy. They keep cattle up here, using whatever grass and hay is available. Aha! There in the distance are the dazzling white Himalayas of tourist fantasy. I doubt the roads go there; more likely one needs to start hiking. The picture would have been clearer if not taken through the bus window, but no one asked the driver to stop. More white mountains, and a gorgeous gorge. The holy city of Rishikesh on the Ganges, where we visited the ashram of Swami Sivananda. And the holy city of Haridwar, also on the Ganges, where the faithful bathe. Here is a girl selling me a candle to float on the water. An amusing restaurant. I guess you can get alcohol in this holy region. Down to Chennai and Thirupati That completes the northern half of our tour, which took about a week. Now we fly from Delhi to Chennai, once called Madras, on the east coast of India, to spend a week in the south. Frankly, I enjoyed the south more. Perhaps that was because the north was chilly during this time of year; also my stomach stopped being upset. And it did seem cleaner and greener, with luxurious tropical vegetation everywhere, as well as nice beaches. Kerala was best of all, and I may retire there some day. (Housing prices are still cheap by our standards!) A graceful statue in the Chennai airport welcomes us. Traditional locomotion can still be found in Chennai. A billboard with women in luxurious silk and gold cloth sarees. Not much chance of finding women dressed like this in the street, so I took a photo. On the bus to Thirupati. Lush southern greenery. Children leaving a simple rural school. How nice to see them holding hands. Amazing! A charming corner of the Indian countryside that looks just like a Van Gogh painting! (Just kidding. This was due to the distortion of the bus window.) Here are some polite local people, visiting a Chinmaya ashram along the way, where we also stopped. An outdoor shrine to Ganesha, the elephant god, at the same ashram. Big Temple at Thirupati (Sri Balaji) A few hours northwest of Chennai is the ancient and magnificent temple to Sri Balaji (a.k.a. Lord Venkateshwara) at Thirupati, near the city of Thirumala. This temple is visited by an enormous number of pilgrims, most of whom show their devotion by hiking for hours up the big hill where the temple is located, and then standing for hours in line. The amount of donations makes this the richest temple in India, comparable in wealth to the Vatican. This photo of the Thirupati hills is not mine. There are seven such hills. This may be a multi-armed guardian deity with supernatural weapons. A kind of human gryphon. Perhaps another guardian deity, though here showing a devotion reminiscent of Hanuman. A flower shop selling malas or flower garlands, to honor the idols. (A sign asked us not to wear flowers, as they are reserved for the deities.) There is an extensive bazaar near the temple, where one can browse through all sorts of arts and crafts. Sidewalk paintings at the bazaar, similar to Tibetan mandalas. A group of pilgrims with shaven heads. Note that even the young boys (and some of the women) have shaven heads, as a sign of humility. Photographs were not permitted in the temple. The following pictures were taken from various websites. The temple complex at Thirupati, with the famous gold-plated vimana. The white tower, characteristic of southern temples, is called a gopuram. A closeup of the vimana. A resplendent gold-plated altar. Here is the two meter high black idol of Sri Balaji. Devotees wait in line for hours to catch a glimpse of this ancient and famous idol. (We were lucky and permitted to cut ahead.) Although I am personally oriented towards Vedanta philosophy rather than the worship of idols, I did feel a sense of awe and mystery as I peered at the idol in the distance, wrapped in shadows, deep within the temple. As Swamiji explains, it is the devotion of countless worshippers which gives the idol its spiritual power. The bustling crowd was pushing me on. One of the priests standing there was kind enough to ask, in a deep voice, "Are you satisfied, sir?" I bowed silently and moved on. Chinmayaranyam We then took a long bus ride south, deep into Tamil Nadu, to visit the spectacular temples at Thiruvanamalai, as well as the nearby Ramanashram, an ashram dedicated to the great modern Advaitin sage Ramana Maharshi. Along the way, we visited a Chinmaya orphanage called Chinmayaranyam, which proved to be one of the highlights of the entire trip. Here Swamiji is delighting the children with a story. They were very cheerful and well-behaved. I loved photographing them, and they loved seeing their picture on the camera's LCD screen. Children who might have been miserable find happiness here. The bucolic setting was so pleasant that I asked to stay behind, only half in jest. A small shrine, so characteristic of Hindu homes. An interesting rock formation along the way, as we continue on to Thiruvanamalai. Thiruvanamalai (Tamil Nadu) The Arunachaleshwara temple at Thiruvanamalai impressed me as much as the one at Akshardam. The gleaming white gopurams soar to the sky and are magnificent examples of Dravidian temple architecture dating from the 10th to 16th centuries. The temple complex is located near the sacred Arunachala mountain, whose mysterious power drew Ramana Maharshi in the early decades of the last century. We also visited the extensive Ramanashram built to honor his memory, where we were treated very kindly by our hosts. Not a shrine but a train station! Thiruvanamalai is famous for its sarees, and we visited a shop where they are woven on looms like this one. The women loved shopping for sarees and spent hours at it. Hundreds of sarees were carefully examined, each one unique. In recent years, there has been an explosion of innovative designs. The women are extremely particular about what they buy. Sarees can often be passed on from mother to daughter. A beautiful silk pattern, very skillfully woven. A colorful shrine along the way. This is a common sight in India. And it is still common to see oxen drawing carts, all over India. Don't they have handsome heads and horns? Yet another bucolic country scene. A bit like England? And another friendly, if slightly shy, girl who loves to have her picture taken. Notice the bhindi on her forehead, even at her young age. One of the few times I felt comfortable taking the picture of a grown man. He looks like an honest fellow, doesn't he? Our bus encounters an elephant on the road. Does anyone want to take a ride? Of course. What luck! It might not have happened, but it made my trip perfect. Here I am on an elephant. I was thrilled to put my hands on his huge, massive head. Yet he was the proverbial gentle giant. The three horizontal stripes indicate that the elephant is a devotee of Shiva! And here I am falling off an elephant. (OK, dismounting, if you wish to be charitable.) The elephant looks amused. Here is someone else mounting. I love those big toes! I wonder how big his nail clippers are? (A friend, Krishnan, sent me the following amusing story, involving kings, elephants and Advaita.) Our bus passes another interesting rock formation. A billboard with a picture of Ramana Maharshi, my favorite saint, greets visitors at the entrance to the Ramanashram. Here I am in the ashram, wearing an embroidered Indian shirt, with Arunachala mountain in the background. A closeup of the sacred mountain, which is one of the oldest geological formations in India. This festive table tells us we are visiting a Hindu home. Notice the picture of Swami Chinmayananda. Not sure what is behind the gate, but I like the husky fellows guarding it. As I walked near Ramanashram, these friendly young girls simply came up and started talking to me in pretty good English. I have never been approached in this way by younger women in the West! A picturesque scene near Ramanashram. It may look like a quiet spot in Switzerland, but there is a bustling crowd right behind me. This boy was attracted by my camera. We had a friendly chat, then suddenly he jumped into the lake. It does look refreshing. An iridescent Indian peacock on the grounds of the Ramanashram. Saint or beggar? Or both? The visit to the great temple begins! How fortunate that today I have a blue sky to go so perfectly with the white gopurams. One stunning gopuram deserves another. Colorful statues of Shiva and his bull Nandi. An explosion of life similar to Akshardam. The stately gopuram in all its majesty. Shiva and Parvati riding on Nandi. I didn't know Parvati could be blue like Krishna, but why not? Can't get enough of these amazing gopurams! (Gopura?) A shapely nymph. Back in town. More colorful sarees. Cows everywhere. This one is cute. Is the rope going through her snout? Ouch! There are many monkeys roaming free like this in India. This husband and wife seem utterly bored and oblivious of the curious humans. Flower vendors right outside the ashram. A procession draped in flowers. Not an uncommon sight in India. Kanya Kumari (Southern Tip) Next we took the bus or train to Kanya Kumari, the southern tip of India, where three seas meet and where one can, from the same spot, watch the sun rise and set, setting the ocean on fire. One can also visit the famed Vivekananda rock off the coast, where the great Hindu saint meditated and received his divine inspiration to rejuvenate India, to spread Vedanta, and to address the World Congress of Religions in America in 1893. (He "stole the show"!) A handsome memorial now honors the place. There is also a famous temple in Kanya Kumari, but 'non-Hindus' like me are barred. I guess it was a case of, "That's funny! You don't look Hindu!" I didn't mind. A street in Kanya Kumari that evokes the Mediterranean. The weather was warm and balmy, with the smell of the salt water in the air. Homage to Mother India! I was amused by the concept of a milk bar. I doubt this place ever gets rowdy. Pink pastels go so well with the sea! Even California doesn't quite have architecture like this. A carnival-like trinket shop by the beach. The water felt so warm and good! I waded in up to my belt. The Vivekananda rock is in the background, and before that is a memorial to Tiruvalluvar, the great Tamilian poet, whose verses reflect a strong ethical sense. Plants for sale along the beach. More pastel colored buildings that look delicious with the sea. Multicolored fishing boats lie on the beach, as we board the ferry taking us to the Vivekananda rock. A view of Kanya Kumari from the ferry. A Christian church can be seen. There are quite a few Christians in the south of India. An aerial view of the Vivekananda Memorial. Trivandrum and Cochin (Kerala) Finally, we ended up in Cochin (or Kochi), in Kerala, on the southwest coast of India. Kerala is a lush, tropical, cosmopolitan state, which calls itself 'God's own country'. It is also the birthplace of the great Hindu saint Shankara. At this time of year, the weather was warm, but not too hot, and pleasant. Our group visited the temples at Trivandrum and Guruvayoor, where again I was not allowed to enter. Then our tour concluded at the Chinmaya International Foundation (CIF) near Cochin, also called Adi Shankara Nilayam, where I lingered and rested for a few days before taking the plane up to Mumbai and then back home. CIF is a beautiful place, devoted to spiritual scholarship, and with some of the best accommodations of the entire trip. A shrine marks the actual birthplace of Shankara. It was a treat to stay here, and I had several memorable conversations with other engaging residents and visitors, such as the retired Indian Air Force pilot now studying Vedanta. The head of CIF, Swami Advayananda, is similar to Swami Dheerananda in his warm and friendly personality. Curious and friendly children never fail to show up. The exotic Malayalam script, not to be confused with Devanagari! Your Keralan home might look like this. A typical south Indian movie star. The men are virile down here! And a typical Indian actress with long black hair. This market has western cakes with icing, contrary to the usual healthy Indian diet. Well, everything in moderation. Kerala is full of lagoons and backwaters. The flower is called a 'blue lotus' and is typical of south India. India style comic books. We visited the Chinmaya Vidyalaya in Thrissur, one of the many excellent Mission schools for children. Here some faculty listen attentively as Swami Dheerananda addresses them. Nice fresh faces of the students at Chinmaya Vidyalaya. A elephant farm associated with the Guruvayoor temple. There are said to be a hundred elephants here, though the actual number is closer to sixty. Notice that their legs are tied to a chain. Some of the elephants would 'dance' or sway from side to side. A Keralan elephant has splendid thick tusks and an indented head. Our bus crosses a lagoon as the sun sets. Lush Keralan vegetation. CIF has a bit of a plantation atmosphere (though without the hard labor). An inviting garden path at CIF. A serene pool at CIF. A village street near CIF. Notice the small shop. Everybody opens a shop here. Fruits and vegetables for sale. Probably grown out back. A classic Malayalam beauty. More Kerala photos here.